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Articles & Columns
Fundamentals: Crossing a Crevasse Field
Climbers have a number of ways to get safely across a field of crevasses.
Read More >>Fundamentals: Detecting Crevasses
The first step in safe glacier travel is figuring out where the crevasses are and picking a route through them.
Read More >>Crevasse Rescue: Hauling Methods for Team Rescue
All rescues are team rescues to some degree, because the fallen climber usually needs some help getting over the crevasse lip even in a self-rescue.
Read More >>Crevasse Rescue: Special Rescue Considerations
A crevasse rescue can be complicated by any number of unusual twists.
Read More >>Fundamentals: Using the Rope
The first rule of safe glacier travel is very simple: rope up. Roping up is especially critical in areas above the firn line, where the glacier gets more snow every year than it loses to melting, making it likely that snow covers some crevasses.
Read More >>Roped Climbing: Belaying On Ice
As in other forms of roped climbing, ice climbers have the options of using running belays or fixed belays.
Read More >>Roped Climbing: Ice Anchors
Ice climbers have several options for anchors to use in belaying or rappelling, including ice bollards, the Abalakov V-thread, and multiple ice screws.
Read More >>Roped Climbing: Protection On Ice
Modern ice screws offer dependable security on ice climbs. However, there is some sacrifice of safety in the time and energy it takes to put them in place.
Read More >>Techniques: Placing Ice Tools
The objective of placing any ice tool is to establish a solid placement with one swing.
Read More >>Techniques: Climbing with Crampons
Ice climbers usually employ features of 2 basic techniques, depending on steepness of the slope, conditions of the ice, and their ability and confidence level.
Read More >>Caring For Your Ice Ax
Modern ice axes require little special care, beyond keeping them clean and sharp.
Read More >>Water Treatment
No source of natural water should be considered safe for drinking before it's properly disinfected.
Read More >>Prevent Altitude-Related Disorders
High altitude disorders are common above an altitude of 8,000 feet.
Read More >>Techniques: Climbing without Crampons
Alpine climbers often encounter short sections of ice or frozen snow.
Read More >>Understanding Harnesses
Climbers tie the rope into a harness designed to distribute the force of a fall over a larger percentage of the body.
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