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Listing 46 - 60
Fundamentals: Crossing a Crevasse Field

Climbers have a number of ways to get safely across a field of crevasses.

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Fundamentals: Detecting Crevasses

The first step in safe glacier travel is figuring out where the crevasses are and picking a route through them.

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Crevasse Rescue: Hauling Methods for Team Rescue

All rescues are team rescues to some degree, because the fallen climber usually needs some help getting over the crevasse lip even in a self-rescue.

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Crevasse Rescue: Special Rescue Considerations

A crevasse rescue can be complicated by any number of unusual twists.

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Fundamentals: Using the Rope

The first rule of safe glacier travel is very simple: rope up. Roping up is especially critical in areas above the firn line, where the glacier gets more snow every year than it loses to melting, making it likely that snow covers some crevasses.

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Roped Climbing: Belaying On Ice

As in other forms of roped climbing, ice climbers have the options of using running belays or fixed belays.

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Roped Climbing: Ice Anchors

Ice climbers have several options for anchors to use in belaying or rappelling, including ice bollards, the Abalakov V-thread, and multiple ice screws.

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Roped Climbing: Protection On Ice

Modern ice screws offer dependable security on ice climbs. However, there is some sacrifice of safety in the time and energy it takes to put them in place.

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Techniques: Placing Ice Tools

The objective of placing any ice tool is to establish a solid placement with one swing.

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Techniques: Climbing with Crampons

Ice climbers usually employ features of 2 basic techniques, depending on steepness of the slope, conditions of the ice, and their ability and confidence level.

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Caring For Your Ice Ax

Modern ice axes require little special care, beyond keeping them clean and sharp.

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Water Treatment

No source of natural water should be considered safe for drinking before it's properly disinfected.

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Prevent Altitude-Related Disorders

High altitude disorders are common above an altitude of 8,000 feet.

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Techniques: Climbing without Crampons

Alpine climbers often encounter short sections of ice or frozen snow.

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Understanding Harnesses

Climbers tie the rope into a harness designed to distribute the force of a fall over a larger percentage of the body.

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