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Techniques: Climbing without Crampons
By Don Graydon.
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If the slope is too steep for secure balance climbing and you plan to proceed without crampons, you could take another route or try cutting steps. Step-cutting may be the answer if they can be cut quickly and efficiently.
Step-Cutting
The adze of the ax can be used in one of two ways for step-cutting.
- The adze can be used to slash the ice by swinging it in a nearly parallel motion to the surface of the ice to create a slash step.
- It can be used to chop by swinging it perpendicular to the ice to create a pigeonhole step.
In softer conditions, the pick can often aid in creating steps, by using it to slice through snow and ice in one smooth swing.
For all step-cutting, attach the ice ax to your wrist with a leash to help support your hard-working hand and to prevent loss of the ax if you drop it.
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The most frequently used technique for step-cutting is the slash step, for traversing up or down gentle to slightly moderate slopes (up to 30 degrees).
- To cut ascending slash steps, stand in a position of balance, holding the ax in the inside (uphill) hand.
- Swing the adze parallel to your uphill foot and away from your body.
- Swing the ax from your shoulder, cutting with the adze and letting the weight of the ax do most of the work.
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