Anchors: Selecting An Anchor
By Don Graydon.
Imagine the hidden undersurface and the block's center of gravity: Will it pull over under a big load? Test it, gently at first so you don't send it over the edge. Occasionally, one has to set up a belay at a jumble of large boulders, with some resting on others. A boulder underneath other large boulders might be quite solid but can be difficult to assess even with careful checking.
Beware of making strong assumptions about what you can know about the security of an anchor based on textbook knowledge and local observation and testing. Virtually any manufactured object used to establish an anchor can have hidden defects, and the usual inspection and testing of natural features will rarely establish their soundness conclusively. For these reasons, the normal practice of most climbers is to set two or more belay anchors for a downward pull.
Do not accept the first anchors that look good enough, but search widely for simple and obviously solid placements. To save time, don't immediately pull out earlier placements that seem less than optimal, as you may find nothing better.
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