Among my seat mates are hikers loaded down with backpacks—together, we eagerly press our faces to the windows, craning our necks to catch views of the thundering 300-foot Rainbow Falls and the parade of snowy summits that tower overhead. Plus, there’s always the outside chance of spotting the lone black bear wandering the valley that’s been the latest topic of gossip around town.

Rahn finds enjoyment in reciting an endless string of facts and stories about Stehekin, tempting visitors to jump off and explore this magnificent valley’s nooks and crannies. "I’ve been looking all my life for the ideal small town, and I’ve finally found it," notes Rahn. "Everyone deserves to experience a place like this."

Tucked deep into the folds of Cascades at the north end of Lake Chelan, Stehekin is out of sight and still widely unknown even among many longtime Pacific Northwest residents. Hemmed in by 8,000-foot peaks and the 55-mile long Lake Chelan, the only way in or out is by boat or float plane, creating the unique feeling that the place is more backcountry outpost than town.

There’s little doubt that through its isolation Stehekin remains an oddity. Here, schedules are frowned upon and cooperation is a way of life among the valley’s 80 permanent residents. Most residents make their living off the land, from a craft, or catering to visitors.

For those willing to make the journey "uplake" as the locals call the trip, Stehekin’s rustic atmosphere and limitless hiking opportunities offer a slice of heaven for outdoor enthusiasts. Federally protected wilderness areas, the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, and North Cascades National Park surround Stehekin, all strung together by hundreds of miles of trails along rivers, through cool woods, and into high mountain meadows.

And while summer is high season in the valley, with so many trails to choose from you’ll have little trouble finding some breathing room and welcome solitude.

Once in Stehekin, friendly National Park Service rangers regularly greet hikers arriving by boat, answering questions and directing hikers to the visitor information center just up the road. There, you’ll find maps, backcountry permits, and bus reservations, along with programs and materials. Permits for hiking can also be obtained at the forest service office down the lake in Chelan.

On a mid-May weekend I took the bouncy bus ride 8 miles up the valley to High Bridge Camp, the jumping off point for the spectacular Agnes Gorge Trail. Under a warm spring sun, I wandered along the gentle up-and-down trail, passing alternately through cool forests of Ponderosa pine and sunny meadows along Agnes Creek. The snowy spire of Agnes Mountain formed a dramatic backdrop to carpets of flowering yellow balsamroot and red paintbrush. In about 2.5 miles, I paused to admire the dramatic black chasm of the gorge and the cold, turquoise waters of Agnes Creek thundering into its gaping depths.

For backpackers, the 17-mile Lake Shore Trail along Lake Chelan makes for a good early season warm up trip in late spring and early summer when the high country is still snowed in. Providing nearly constant views, the trail winds up and down the rocky north shore of the lake, crossing sweeping bluffs and dropping down to the lake’s cold blue waters. With campsites and boat landings at the 7-mile and 17-mile marks, backpackers can conveniently arrange with the boat running daily up and down the lake to be dropped off and picked up at various points.

Another loop trip where hikers can take advantage of the boat shuttle is the Agnes Creek Trail, a 28-mile trek through old-growth forest over Cloudy Pass between Stehekin and Holden Village, an old mining camp turned retreat by the Lutheran church. The hike links the two uniquely remote communities, and at both ends you can reward yourself with a hearty meal or even a night’s stay before jumping back on the boat back down the lake.

Other notable hikes in the area include the 8-mile trail to Purple Pass and beyond to Lake Juanita, ringed with meadows 6,000 feet above the valley below. There’s also McGregor Mountain, a grueling 7.5-mile trail that traverses 144 switchbacks to its summit at over 8,000 feet.

Finally, there’s the Cascade Pass Trail, which begins at the far end of the Stehekin valley and climbs several miles to the pass and beyond to trailheads on the west side of the mountains, making for a popular cross-Cascade traverse.

According to National Park Service officials, this year’s snow pack in and around Stehekin is about 60 percent of normal, meaning that trails through the high country are likely to open earlier than usual.

No matter which hike you choose, don’t be surprised if you have an encounter with the area’s abundant wildlife, including mountain goats, mule deer, bears, cougars, and even rattlesnakes. And while the thought of bears, cougars and rattlesnakes may make raise your hackles, the critters are as eager to avoid a conflict as you are, and run-ins with humans are rare.

The few amenities "downtown" Stehekin offers are clustered around the boat landing and conveniently catered to hikers. Situated in tiny cabins, you’ll find welcome last minute camping and hiking accessories, as well as a number of items hand crafted by valley residents. The main lodge also runs a general convenience store. Since Stehekin residents tend to go with the flow when it comes to store hours, you may need to track down the owner around town.

In addition to several hike-in campsites, there are camping areas accessible by boat down the lake at Moore Point and Prince Creek, as well as several bus-accessible camps scattered throughout the Stehekin Valley. Although campsites are generally available, it’s a good idea to plan ahead and check availability ahead of time by contacting the National Park Service visitor center in Stehekin.

For those less inclined to rough it outside, there are three lodges along with a handful of private cabins offering accommodations. The North Cascades Lodge, located right at the boat landing, is a convenient base for trails in the lower valley, as well as many organized tours, mountain bike trips, river rafting excursions, and guided nature walks. Other lodges farther up the valley include the Silver Bay Inn and rustic Stehekin Valley Ranch.

After you’ve built up a voracious appetite on the trail, stretch out, swap stories with fellow hikers, and grab a meal at the North Cascades Lodge’s restaurant at the landing. You can also stop in the famous Stehekin Pastry Company about a mile up the road from the landing to reward your hiking effort with a well-deserved cinnamon roll.

When to Go: Stehekin is a great destination year-round, offering snowshoeing and skiing in winter, and hiking from spring through fall. Peak summer hiking season runs from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Advanced reservations are recommended for lodging as many of the area’s lodges fill during summer.

How to Get There: Stehekin is accessible by boat or floatplane—the main jumping off point is the town of Chelan, located about 150 miles from both Spokane and Seattle. The Lake Chelan Boat Company operates daily boat service to and from Stehekin, with stops at various points in between. Reservations are recommended. Chelan Airways also offers air service up and down the lake. Contact the Lake Chelan Boat Company 509-682-4584, http://www.ladyofthelake.com/ or Chelan Airways, (509) 682-5065.

Trail Conditions, Camping, and Trip Planning: For information on trail conditions and trip planning, contact the National Park Service’s Lake Chelan National Recreation Area at (509)-856-5700, extension 340 or the U.S. Forest Service at (509)-682-2576. You’ll also find hiking and other activity ideas at the North Cascades Lodge web site, www.stehekin.com.

Lodging:

North Cascades Stehekin Lodge at (509)-682-4494, www.stehekin.com

Stehekin Valley Ranch, 1-800-536-0745, www.courtneycountry.com

Silver Bay Inn Resort, 1-800-555-7781, www.silverbayinn.com