An Emerald Isle Adventure
By Jon.
We took the red-eye from Logan Airport and arrived at 6am in Shannon, Ireland. The six of us mad dashed for luggage, rent-a-car and a needed cup of coffee. Lucky for us it was a sleepy Saturday morning so the roads were mostly empty as we adapted to driving on the "wrong" side of the road. Shifting was a challenge with the left hand and the rules of round-about entry were deftly learned. Later on we found the roads to be "white knuckle" narrow in places and have to say we where happy to have bought the supplemental car insurance after-all.
Right from the start this trip was a break from the mundane. It was an adventure we had planned for 6 months and now it was happening! We were now ready to immerse ourselves into the history, heritage, music, memories, laughter and life of this magical land.
For the next 2 weeks, our adventure would be focused entirely on the west coast of Ireland. We explored from Dingle north to Donegal and all points in-between. We drove over 1000 miles, hiked four majestic mountains, took tranquil treks along beautiful ragged coastline, gazed upon a thousand shades of green in the country-side, delighted in rainbow sightings and explored ruins from another time.
AccommodationsWe found the first of three B&B’s named "Teac Saun" in Dingle. It was run by a smiling lady named Kate who was a gracious host. For the next 3 days, she effortlessly made us the most delicious Irish breakfasts. The full Irish breakfast is an amazing choice of cereals, fruit, yogurt, grainy toast, jam, biscuits, eggs, sausage, bacon and coffee. Such a great start to ease into the day! Bravo to the full Irish breakfast for it can not be beat!
We also stayed in three hostels located in Doolin, Killarney & Connemara. Hostels cater to the savvy budget traveler. Who can resist the reasonable cost of these accommodations which are usually situated in the center of colorful towns? These locations allowed us to forget about the car, stroll along lively streets, search for pubs with traditional Irish music and toast good health with pints of heavenly Guinness at ease knowing a comfortable bed was safely within walking distance.
HighlightsSometimes you just have to make time in your life to live. Really take a moment and get away from it all. For us, Ireland was about gaining time to explore. Time to experience stunning views from jagged mountain summits, time to explore 5000 year old megalithic tombs and ancient stone structures, time to gaze upon blooming foxglove, hydrangea & fuchsia hedges, time to enjoy a leisurely meal with good friends, time to chat over a pint and time to wake up each morning with anticipation of the day ahead.
There are many "must do" experiences in Ireland. So where does one start? Well you can take note of our top Ireland west coast experiences. They were as follows:
(1) Take a drive in Dingle over Connor Pass - a paved road which becomes increasingly narrow and depending on your sense of adventure, either thrilling or terrifying. It crests at 1300’ w/views of Mt Brandon which is Irelands’ eighth highest peak at 3300 feet and worth a climb - which we did the following day. I’ll always remember ascending jagged ridges all green clad with moss and looking upward at imposing black rock ramparts. As we got higher this peak seemed to have a Peruvian Andes Mountain look to it and at any minute we were expecting to gaze upon Machu Picchu - leprechaun trickery no doubt.
(2) Another Dingle "must do" is a visit to Slea Head, which is reached via a wonderful coastal drive overlooking pristine sandy beaches, turquoise water, foamy surf and views to the Blaskett Islands. There is a cliff walk over & around the point that will take your breath away. Make some time and bring a lunch to take it all in. Don’t forget to check out the 2000 year old stone beehive dwellings made with dry stacked stone still standing to this day as you drive that wonderful coastal route – rated a top 10 drive in the world.
(3) If you like to climb who can resist summiting the highest mountain in Ireland – Carrountohill at 3414’. It rises stoutly out of the plain and depending on the vantage has a unique horseshoe shape. We choose a trail that led us into the horseshoe then ascended steeply the right shoulder. There is a breathtaking ridge-walk and knife edge with a 50 foot iron cross on the main summit. You can tell Ireland is extremely Catholic.
(4) As we traveled further north up the western coast we came upon the sheer limestone Cliffs of Moher located in County Clare which are mighty big, stretching for five miles topping at 700 feet above the crashing Atlantic. This is Irelands’ top attraction with up to a million visiting people which far outnumber the 30,000 birds living along the cliffs.
(5) There are hundreds of megalithic tombs and rock rings in Ireland. We were especially enchanted with the Poulnabrone Dolmen. It is a 5000 year old portal tomb located in the Burren consisting of a 12 foot slab capstone supported by 2 slender portal stones which lift the capstone off the ground creating a burial chamber underneath. It’s has a dominating presence on the landscape and was used as a center for ceremony and ritual many thousands of years ago. This holy tomb radiated ancient energy and mysticism.
(6) At some point you must make your way to Connemara, a savage beauty of an untamed land. It’s a rocky area of broad-backed mountains and pearl-like lakes. Here we explored the streets of Clifden a lively town with multi-colored buildings, outdoor café’s and home to the Sky Road very aptly named. From the Sleep Zone Hostel, we explored Irelands only Fiord (Killary Harbor) with a trek along the Famine Walk that took us by the abandoned stone village of Foher with sheep still grazing in its fields – the people long gone.
(7) Feel like climbing the most hallowed mountain where St Patrick cast the snakes out of Ireland? Then CroahPatrick makes the list at 2100’ with a pyramid summit and stunning views down unto Clew Bay and the town of Westport. This peak attracts tens of thousands of pilgrims a year who come to pray at the church that was built on the summit. Twenty-thousand people climbed the Pilgrim Route the day after we did it.
(8) The best aspect of Ireland is the opportunity to check out the pub scene as you make your way through various towns. There’s nothing better than quaffing a Guinness listening to musicians practice their craft and you can’t beat the atmosphere and friendly folks who want to make good conversation with a Yank.
(9) When in Donegal you must climb the highest peak in Glenveah National Park - Mt Errigal at 2466 feet. This mountain rises alarmingly out of a peat bog and stands tall with a magnificent ridge-walk that leads to twin quartzite cones that command astounding views to the ocean. This peak had a Himalayan feel that was totally unexpected, elfish and magical. I guess it goes to show you the Isle can surprise you at every turn.
(10) The "must do" list ends with another magnificent cliff walk. Located in Donegal exists the highest sea cliffs in the British Isles known as Slieve League. We were astounded by this mountain whose walls drop 3000 feet into the crashing Atlantic. Hiking over to the Eagles Nest Viewpoint was breathtaking with the gulls circling overhead, precipitous rock cliffs a mere few feet away and a shimmering ocean that disappeared into the horizon.
Ireland Will Always Be A Part Of UsThere is a rich mixture of ancestry, culture & tradition in this land-of-the-green. All visitors are welcomed and I know there will always be a part of Ireland in us. I feel very fortunate to have shared these timeless sights and experiences with my good friends.
Thank you Cecil, Dan, Joey, Mike and Steve for being wonderful travel partners while we explored, trekked and pub crawled. I’m so glad we took the "time" to make these wonderful life long memories! As was mentioned earlier sometimes you’ve just got to make "time" for life.
There is so much too see and do in Ireland. Don’t spread yourself to thin and try to do it all. Take "time" to intimately explore a small section and come back a few years later for a second look around another area. You’ll be glad you did! It’s "time" well spent which you’ll never regret having done.View Emerald Isle Pictures (Press F11 for full effects)
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