Wind-sculpted arches, sticky sliprock, and teetering pillars are signature Moab terrain, and the White Rim Trail, an 85-mile traverse of them, is the signature multi-day ride.

The White Rim Trail, which is really a dirt road, was built by the Atomic Energy Commission in the 1950's to facilitate a search for uranium. Back when mountain biking and Moab's bike boom was in its infancy, it was discovered by cyclists. Word of mouth elevated it the top of mountain biking rides because of its beauty and low skill threshold. Die-hard mountain bikers think that this has become an overrated tourist trail.

The Island in the Sky Visitor Center is where to begin your ride. Most people take three or four days to complete the hundred-mile trail, with support from a truck loaded with supplies. Some die-hard mountain bikers have done this in one day. The National Park Service limits traffic to day-trippers and a few campers who are restricted to 20 primitive sites. These camping permits sometimes need to be obtained one year in advance so if you plan on one for a few overnights, plan ahead.

You can get lucky and take over a last-minute cancellation.  If you get at least one campsite, you can then try riding the whole trail in a couple of days. One option is camp at Hardscrabble B with riding 70 miles clockwise your first day and then 30 miles the next.

You'll need to hitch up specially designed mountain bike trailers and fill them up with provisions and camping gear. Or you can hire one of the many guide services who shuttle your gear and cook your meals to each campsite. You'll start off descending 1,400-feet off the high shelf of the Colorado Plateau and down to the rim proper using the Shafer Trail switchbacks. Majestic views will be wherever you look.  

In 20 minutes you'll be in the White Rim, and time to shed layers for the ride ahead.... and pull your 50 pound caboose. 

You'll then be riding across this vast martian landscape of a desert, red rock and blue sky. Your mind will drift to current events of the day...including debating whether God exists when you witness the soaring buttes and sculpted rock that surrounds you.  After Lathrop Canyon, you ride to your camp at Airport Tower and enjoy views of the La Sal and Abajo mountains.

On day two, you approach Monument Basin, and continue riding around the beautifully eroded canyons of the Colorado Plateau. In this spectacular canyon stands the Totem Pole, a 300 foot tall sandstone pillar. A 1-1/2 mile side trip to the White Crack offers fantastic views of both the Green and Colorado river canyons as well as the Needles District of Canyonlands. Continuing on past Junction Butte, you descend to the base of 5,000 foot perch on Murphy Hogback, where a steep 400 foot climb brings you to camp. The Hogback is the high point of the trip and from here one can look into the Maze and Needles Districts of Canyonlands and beyond.

On day three, you begin the day with a fun but technical descent off the Hogback down to the White Rim layer.  Continue along in a downhill mode along the rim of the sheer canyon to Potato Bottom where the White Rim sandstone layer disappears into the Green River. Camp here under the cottonwoods on the bank of the Green River.

If your ambitious wake up to catch the sunrise and witness a display of light and topography that you might never see again.

On your last day after a hearty breakfast you'll climb up Hardscrabble Hill. It's a steep one, and it's about a mile long with intermittent pitches. After topping out, you'll traverse the Chinle rock layer, where the miners of the 1950's searched for uranium, before dropping back down to river level. Following the course of the Green River, your final morning's ride is an enjoyable cruise along the river bank to Horsethief Bottom. Views of Upheaval Dome, rising 1,500 feet from the trail bring to mind the geologic complexities of the area. You'll then be riding again that includes a monster climb back up the plateau and gains 800 feet in elevation. Your journey ends with washboard miles along Mineral Bottom Road.

Back at the visitors center, share a well-earned high five, a cold beer, and a deep sense of satisfaction. Every bone and muscle in your body will feel the accomplishment of completing the White Rim trail with or without the help of a supporting rig.

Getting There

Salt Lake City International Airport is served by all major airlines. It's a four-and-a half-hour drive from Salt Lake City to the Island in the Sky Visitor Center; from Moab, it's less than an hour.

Outfitters 

Mountain bike season runs from mid-March to May and from September to mid-November---it's too hot to ride in the summer. Many Moab outfitters lead White Rim rides. Rim Tours offers three-day ($675 per person) and four-day ($775) trips with meals and vehicle support. Western Spirit  has a four-day White Rim ride ($895) with meals and vehicle support. 

Camping and Lodging

If you will not using a guide service, you must reserve a campsite if you plan on overnight along the White Rim Trail---call well in advance, since sites go quickly. Bike permits ($30) are good for 14 days; the park entrance fee is $10 for seven days. Contact Canyonlands National Park (www.nps.gov/cany) for more information. In Moab, stay at the tents-only Up the Creek Campground ($10; 435-259-6995) or at the Dream Keeper Inn (www.dreamkeeperinn.com), a quiet B&B.

Resources

Use this link [http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/maps.htm] to download various national park maps. David Crowell's Mountain Biking Moab details 42 rides, from easy to difficult. The Moab Area Travel Council (www.discovermoab.com) is a useful resource.