Palm Springs ~ a desert oasis
By Bryen Dunn.
Palm Springs has long been known as a winter playground for heat-seeking LGBT travellers. From sun soaked pool decks to sweat soaked sheets, this city glimmers with frivolity and fabulousness. There’s an abundance of fine dining establishments, funky accommodations, and year-round events. As well, for those wanting to take the adventure beyond the bedroom, there’s plenty of outdoor activities located within an hour’s reach of the downtown core.
Sitting poolside with a cocktail in hand, gazing up at the snow-capped peaks is an experience locked into the mind forever. I decide to pack a knapsack and head to the hills. There’s a great hiking trail up into the mountains right behind the Palm Springs Art Museum, which by the way is a great excursion in itself. I spent the next couple of hours sauntering along the trails that seemingly lead to nowhere in particular. The views of the city from the various vantage points were remarkable, and the feeling of a seclusion of silence was quite empowering.
Over the next couple of days I made a point of doing one half-day excursion each day. Desert Adventures offers an ‘Off Road Excursion to San Andreas Fault’, where I rode in a jeep with a few others up into the ancient fossil-bed canyons, and across the still active fault line in the Mojave Desert. We stopped several times along the way, where we had a chance to climb up into the narrow crevices that are not meant for the claustrophobic.
Something that you can’t miss doing is visiting Chino Canyon, reachable by the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, the largest rotating tramcar in the world. For 10 minutes I was suspended in the air, within a slow spinning container, elevated some 6,000 feet skyward to an elevation level of just over 8,500 feet. It’s truly a panoramic experience, especially on a clear sunny day when you can almost see the skyscrapers of Los Angeles (if you really, really squint). Once on the top there’s a great system of hiking trails that are also used for cross-country skiing for a good part of the year. Yes, you’re that far up that you could be traipsing through snow, within an hour of leaving the poolside.
For something a bit more strenuous, I’d suggest grabbing a mountain bike from Big Wheel Tours, and exploring Joshua Tree National Park. This can either be done on your own with a map that’s provided, or as a guided tour with commentary. Just remember, this is the desert, so wear a hat, light clothing, and sunscreen, and bring lots of water. It’s another amazing phenomenon unlike anything else in North America.
Back in the city there are several options to replenish the famished tummy, The first night I sauntered over to Las Caseules Restaurant, a Palm Springs tradition offering plentiful food, powerful drinks, and live performances. It’s generally packed, so best to get there early if you want a street-side table. Otherwise, any of the other half-dozen rooms each provide their own unique flavour. A humongous burrito and a few margaritas later, I was ready to get this party started. One of the more glamorous spots I checked out was DINKS – come on, how can you not stop by here? It’s actually a restaurant by day and piano lounge by night. The outdoor patio is set up with a bar, lounge chairs, and blankets for those cool desert nights. Diva’s take over the piano and belt out tunes along with the regulars during the week, and DJ’s work the tables on weekends. This is one place I recall walking into, but not leaving.
Other unique dining establishments abound throughout the city, offering everything from celebrity chef cuisine to local favourites, such as Pinocchio’s in the Desert where you can suck back $3.00 Bloody Mary’s with your morning omelet. It can’t get any gayer than this! For a more traditional dining experience, stop into the Kaiser Grille where chefs prepare a variety of prime cut steaks, pastas, and salads made for two. For a quick but delicious breakfast, I’d highly recommend Sherman’s Deli & Bakery, a kosher-style deli first opened in 1953, or the newly opened Cheeky’s, adhering to the organic and buy local concept and serving up hearty eats with strong java. For a quick drink and snacks, check out happy-hour at Circa 59, located within the recently renovated yet still nostalgic Riviera Resort and Spa.
One of the newest properties to open within the last year is the Ace Hotel, one of four locations now operating in the United States. It’s so hip and funky that I almost didn’t want to leave the resort, or my room for that matter. Each room is created using sustainable materials wherever possible, including biodegradable soaps and shampoos. It also has a well stocked mini-bar with full size bottles of booze, and the room I had also had its own private terrace with fireplace. Alas, the kicker for me was the fact that every room comes with a turntable and selection of vinyl to enjoy while doing damage to the mini-bar.
The outdoor recreation area has two pools, hot tub, several lounge chairs, a doggie area, a children’s area, and a fantastic bar built within an old 60’s VW camper van. FYI – awesome frozen drinks and cute, friendly staff! They often will have DJ’s spin poolside as well, so as I mentioned it was really hard to leave the property. From almost anywhere in the city there are magnificent views of the surrounding mountain ranges.
For my final night in town, I went to check out INNdulge, one of Palm Springs many all-male clothing optional resorts. This property is on the fringe of the downtown drag over in the gay-friendly residential and resort area known as Warm Sands. The spacious rooms are fully self-contained with a large kitchen and dining room, separated living room with large screen television, and a master bedroom that leads out to the pool and hot tub.
For those seeking a more hedonistic experience, there’s no shortage of annual events to keep the adrenaline pumping all night long, everything from sin city to sex city. Plan your visit around Pride, White Ball or Dinah Shore Weekend, and there will no shortage of all night revelry. At some point during your stay, I’d highly recommend some downtime at the Spa Resort Casino. The Spa’s signature experience is the ‘Taking of the Waters’ which includes steam, sauna and Eucalyptus inhalation followed by a soak in the natural hot springs that percolate directly into the facility. What many don’t know is that the city is built above a network of hot springs, from which it actually got its name.
As I arrive at the airport, I check in and clear security in minutes. I’m then able to linger longer in the sunshine, as a large portion of the interior is actually outside. One last cocktail, a grandiose wave to the desert horizon, and I board my flight back to reality – already contemplating my return.
Information Tourist Information - www.VisitPalmSprings.com, www.visitpalmspringsblog.com, www.gaypalmspringsca.com
Local Entertainment Guide - www.psbottomline.com
Palm Springs Art Museum – www.psmuseum.org
Accommodations Ace Hotel - www.acehotel.com
INNdulge - www.inndulge.com
Riviera Resort and Spa- www.psriviera.com
Spa Resort Casino - www.sparesortcasino.com
Events Pride – www.pspride.org
Dinah Shore Weekend – www.thedinah.com
White Party - www.jeffreysanker.com
Adventure Desert Adventures - www.red-jeep.com
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway www.pstramway.com
Indian Canyons - www.indian-canyons.com
Big Wheel Tours - www.bwbtours.com
Joshua Tree National Park - www.nps.gov/Jotr/index.htm
Dining Las Caseules Restaurant - www.lascasuelas.com
DINKS Restaurant – www.dinksrestaurant.com
Pinocchio’s in the Desert www.pinocchiops.com
Kaiser Grille www.kaisergrille.com/
Sherman’s Deli & Bakery www.shermansdeli.com
Cheeky’s – www.cheekysps.com
Be sure to check out Bryen Dunn's website at www.bryendunn.com and his GO Profile.
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