Ever since the first World Championships of mountain biking were held on nearby Durango Mountain in 1990, Durango has become increasingly fat tire - friendly. Now the town of 15,000 is a biking hub with a scene that rivals Moab's. The winning mix: proximity to a diverse range of public lands, a trail organization that maintains and build singletrack, and, in August, sunny days in the mid-70s, cooled by the occasional afternoon thundershower. Just the local town trails could keep you busy for four to five days.

THE RIDING

We recommend taking a few days to tick off the town trails first: Horse Gulch, a 60-plus-mile network of desert trails; the Dry Fork Loop of the Colorado Trail, a technical 13-mile blast; and the nine-mile nest of trails in Durango Mountain Park. Next, test the World Cup course, in Purgatory Village, an eight-mile loop with 2,000 feet of climbing. Save for last the classic 20-mile singletrack Hermosa Creek Trail, a 45-minute drive away. It winds through aspen groves and pine forests as it follows the creek. Pick up full-suspension rental Treks or Gary Fishers and trail maps at Hassle Free Sports.

BONUS SPORT

Work your upper body at Sailing Hawks, a collection of 100-plus bouldering problems, rated V to a tendon-popping V12, near Animas Mountain.

EATS & DRINKS

Bread is a local bakery that serves fresh-roasted coffee and knobby oatmeal cookies. Stonehouse Subs bakes its own bread for its monster grinders. At East by Southwest , sushi collides with tortilla chips for surprising results. Locals rally on Thursdays for juicy burgers and dollar pints at the outdoor patio at Steamworks Brewing Company.

STAY

The historic 25-room, gay-friendly Rochester Hotel is decorated in Old West style and is close to the action.

GET THERE

Durango is 335 miles southwest of Denver. Or fly into Durango Airport.