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Gay Cross-Country Gems

By Mike Boisvert.

West Virginia

Admittedly, West Virginia seems an unlikely spot for nordic skiing. But in fact, there are 350-plus trail systems spread across North America, many of them close to major cities, and a few below the Mason-Dixon Line. At 3,200 feet, Canaan Valley is the highest mountain valley east of the Rockies. When cold Canadian winds scour the Great Lakes, the moisture-laden air blows down to the Alleghenies, dumping loads of snow onto Canaan's ridges (150 inches per year on average). Forests of red spruce, balsam fir, and northern hardwoods hold on to the white stuff for weeks on end.

One of Canaan Valley's true stunners is the eight-mile Blackwater/Canaan Cross-Country Ski Trail (304-259-5216), which climbs through groves of red spruce to crest 3,900-foot Canaan Mountain, then descends to the valley floor. The region's other premier spot, Bald Knob, is accessed from the nature center at Canaan Valley Resort State Park (800-622-4121 or http://www.canaanresort.com). Marked trails wind across the mountain and weave through snowy north-facing slopes, ranging from easy-as-you-please to downright gnarly.

The variety of trails in the Canaan Valley is matched by the Bright Morning Inn (from $105 per night; 866-537-5731 or http://www.brightmorninginn.com) that was a boardinghouse for lumberjacks and accommodates 25 guests in 7 bedrooms and one suite.

Northern California

Royal Gorge Cross Country Ski Resort (http://www.royalgorge.com) offers you an extensive network of trails over thousands of acres of snow-clad wilderness in the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains. With 205 miles of groomed trails over 9,100 acres of land near Lake Tahoe, it's the largest nordic ski center in the country -- and one of the prettiest, with towering peaks and the 4,417-foot chasm that's the resort's namesake.

Royal Gorge's 90 trails- 16 advanced, 46 intermediate and 28 beginner- are continually tiller-groomed with a double track and a skating lane. Four surface lifts haul skiers up particularly steep stretches, allowing them to practice downhills and turns. There are two inns and a sizable day lodge, rental and retail shops, a ski school and a ski patrol, an extensive program of races, tours and clinics, 4 trailside cafes and 10 warming huts. And although Royal Gorge has seven miles where snowmaking is possible, it's not often needed, given its base elevation of 7,000 feet and its 500 inches of average yearly snow.

An intimate place to stay is at the gay-friendly Mayfield Bed & Breakfast from $260 per night; 888 518-8898 or http://www.mayfieldhouse.com). Attention to every detail - very comfortable beds, relaxing music and stone fireplace in common room, mountain decor and diverse books throughout, complimentary wine, sodas and beer.

British Columbia

Torn between nordic and alpine? Silver Star (www.skisilverstar.com) , 300 miles east of Vancouver, is a full-fledged ski resort, with 24 cross-country trails scattered at all elevations on the mountain, in addition to 107 downhill runs, two biathlon ranges, and restaurants and bars galore.

Their network of cross country trails has been rated among the best in the world, and they are usually the first Nordic facility in North America to open with natural snowfall. That's why so many Olympic cross country stars come here to train, and why Silver Star is home to the Canadian and American National Cross-Country and Biathlon teams for early-season training.

After a day of cross-country skiing spend the night at the gay friendly Rovers B&B at Blind Bay ($115 per night; 866 768-3722 or http://www.aroversrest.com). Handcrafted log home overlooking Shuswap Lake and Copper Island, British Columbia. Complete with hot tub, 2 fireplaces, and a hearty breakfast.

Minnesota

With such challenges as Suicide Hill and Kamikaze Hill on its 36 miles of trails, it's a good thing Maplelag (from $202, including lodging, meals, and trail passes; 800-654-7711 or www.maplelag.com) has the state's largest hot tub, all-you-can-eat meals, and massage therapists on call.

For classic tracked cross-country skiing try Sukkerbusk, Mother North Star, Sap Run and Twin Lakes. Skaters Waltz is ideal for skaters. North Loop and Rootin Tootin will challenged intermediate skiers.

Vermont

If the 53 miles of groomed nordic trails at Craftsbury Outdoor Center (from $140, including lodging, meals, and trail passes; 800-729-7751 or http://www.craftsbury.com), 90 minutes northeast of Burlington, are good enough for Olympians (two call the area home and countless others train here), they should be good enough for you.

The Center's extensive trail system links three scenic villages, pristine lakes, high meadows, river valleys and forests. Most of their trails run over moderate rolling terrain - perfect for novice and intermediate skiers - while their expert trails are designed to challenge even the toughest racer. They have 100K of trails, groomed 10-14 feet wide, providing some of the best skate and classical skiing you'll ever experience. For the more adventurous, backcountry trails begin at our doorstep.

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